By: Vincent Zondo Mhlanga – @StyleJoburg
SA Fashion Week kicked off last night at the Crown Plaza in Rosebank where some of the very best SA fashion designers showcased their latest spring/summer collections.
The first day hit the spot with a lot of the fashion editors and bloggers who were on my radar. With the most loved collection being the ever so fabulous Black Coffee. I later caught-up with Jacques van der Watt’s to get his perspective on his collection, “The starting point were the mud cloths from the Makuba tribes in Congo – the workmanship has been passed down from tribe to tribe” he said.
The collection illustrated a lot substance with the shapes that were almost marking the body as he worked with a lot of positive and negative shapes. But above all, the headgear really stole the show and served as the one golden thread within the collection. “It was a cross reference of a strong equestrian and gladiator feel juxtaposed with African masks in the front as I tried not to be too literal in my interpretation” he concluded.
Clive Rundle also showed his collection through a live installation reminiscent of a magazine fashion shoot with a voice over seemingly trying to interpret what the viewer could be seeing from the collection as models took to the stage platform for the presentation. “It examined a person’s personality, character, and emotional functionality. Since most people are reluctant to describe their thinking process.” He said.
Sheldon Kopman concluded the night with his installation that featured a few key pieces, curated through a video that was about the rural-urban migration of a young man. And in true Naked Ape style, pieces are made from natural fabrics like woven bamboo, organic cotton and hemp, accented and layered with fine perforated leather.
Black Coffee showed yesterday at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin Spring Summer 2010. Suzy Menkes interviewed them after the show – Yay!
Here is what they said about the thinking behind the collection
“This season Black Coffee embraces a different approach. Fabric becomes more than an interesting covering – it develops a history by its process. Silk is uniquely folded into patterns and shapes with hand-dyed and beaded techniques giving the garments depth and life. Cottons and linens are block printed. Read More…
I have been having terrible bloggers angst as a result of failed IT – it seems we got struck by a virus yesterday.
But I will make up for it today with wild blogging abandon.
Here is a small vid of the Black Coffee launch on Wednesday.
SA Fashion Week is on – the shows kick off on Thursday and there is an advanced gathering this afternoon – a little launch at Black Coffee of the work they have developed in partnershio with DAC, working with crafters. Of course the big question is what to wear? Actress Lorcia Cooper gets a little help from designers Abigail Betz and Palesa Mokubung. The Times was there to get some handy tips.
Black Coffee’s Jacques van der Watt and Daniça Lepen are the worthy winners of the 2009 Mercedes Benz Award for South African Fashion Design (clothing). Their otherworldly installation is dense with African analogy but looks to the future. Now all I want is to miraculously stretch so I can float away in one of these. Catch the exhibition before it goes to Berlin at the Seippel Gallery ( cnr End and Pritchard street in Joburg – today, tommorow and Monday)
(Pic credit: Moeketsi Moticoe)
I like what they had to say about their winning design – read it after the break Read More…
I had a pleasant surprise walking down to Vida in Rosebank – for my daily fix ( OK I need at least two daily fixes) and discovered a whole entire store had popped up – the Virgin Mobile Store – and inside they stocked some of my favourite designers: Suzaan Heyns – with some brilliant leather tailoring and those delightful multitasking Black Coffee dresses in a limited edition for the store -they come in a great neutral cream colour in a nifty perspex box.
My fellow blogger Dan Pinch of South African Street Style has started a new blog specifically for T-shirts you have known and loved – called the Tee party project. I think its a great idea so here are two contributions from the frock report.
Here is Rob McKay’s t- shirt by the now defunct label Abraham and Louisa since Suzaan Heyns went solo.
And Simon Shear’s Tshirt which he made himself – and in his own words “I know that the nu- rave aesthetic is pretty tired globally , but I like the idea of self realised lo-fi production, and I think that this look can be invigorating on the local scene – it is still boundary pushing – the ironic reclaiming of garishness – there is also a celebration of colour and the idea of the appropriation of South African symbols but that are not cultural artifacts but are still cultural signifiers – and I liked the word nu South Africa.” Read More…
Trendsetter Jacques van der Watt – one half of seminal local fashion label Black Coffee and a highly-regarded figure in fashionista circles – talks to The Frock Report about Spring/Summer fashion.
Catch Black Coffee on the ramps at Sanlam SA Fashion Week this Wednesday night at 21h00!