First Buffet in the Dungeons at Ecole Ritz Escoffier

By Edna Oberholzer | 19 November 2009

At the end of our first week at the Escoffier level we held our first buffet. Every dish wash beautifully crafted and served in small dishes or very small spoons which we collected from a special store room (allowed in for the first time) and then placed on glass or slate platters. We decorated the tables with silver baubles and black granules, we added candles and were allowed to use some beautiful candelabra. All the regular staff working in the dungeon (that’s the underground section of the Ritz hotel) was invited and intelligent comment given on every dish. I was very pleased when the Secretary of the school returned to finish off a few shot glasses of my beautiful Rose Cream Custard. Here is our menu:-

- Rose cream custard with fruit coulis and fresh fruit

- Violet cream brulee with fresh raspberries

- Crème brulee

- Caramel apple crumble (with little stewed apple balls to decorate)

- Very small tomatoes stuffed with miniscule cubes of different vegetables

- Potatoes with truffles and Reblochon cheese au gratin

-Veal lasagna with herbs

-Fillet of Pork marinated in balsamic vinegar and grenadine (wrapped in puff pastry)

-Sauteed foie gras with gingerbread curls, blueberry compote and blueberry sauce

-Scallops filled with truffle slices and ginger parmesan biscuits

-Sea urchin tongues with celeriac cream and Dublin Bay Prawn Jelly served in clean sea urchin shells (of which the needles hurt like hell if you get on in your finger) and placed on red salt crystals

Not bad for a mornings’ work by three students and our singing chef! Our turn to impress the patisserie and boulangerie students who keep us supplied with our daily bread and our great daily cakes (cannot buy better anywhere in Paris!)

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Les Bleue domptent les Springboks … un succès majeur!

By Edna Oberholzer | 16 November 2009

This blog is for The Braai Guys who wished me luck in a comment posted last week before the game between the French and the Boks.

The headline (above)  in Le Figaro on Saturday said that the French did something (sounds nasty) to the Boks and the win is a major success. While  waiting for a friend to arrive for our visit to Napoleon’s grave, I watched a French monsieur in a café, first reading the rugby story, then reading the newspaper and then reading the rugby story again, almost as if he could not believe his eyes!

Most French supporters expected their team to lose on Friday night. But I  expected the Boks to lose. No, I am not a clairvoyant or a pessimist, but I can keep my stats. You see, in all my years of travelling to many different countries, the Springboks always lose (with one exception) when I go to a public bar, café or pub in a foreign country to watch South Africa play. I have watched us lose against Ireland in the sportz bar-cum- casino in Moscow, against England in the Irish pub in Budapest where we were snowed in after the game, against the All Blacks in a “coffee shop” in the red light district of Amsterdam and against the British Lions in Paris in the summer. And when we lose on these occasions, it is never “nice” losses but always ones in which red cards, yellow cards or poor refs are prevalent. Sometimes, SA politics and “tired” teams have also played a part.

But be that as it may, do you think that if I write a friendly letter to John Smit and the team, and ask them to try really hard to win one match (against a top team, and Italy doesn’t count) when I am watching in a café somewhere in the world, they might oblige?

“Dear John, please win a major game when I am watching in a pub outside South Africa ….Just once, I would like to be able to buy a round of drinks (and it would be exceptionally good if this game could be against England and I am watching in an Irish pub) ….”

I watched this game in Rue Cambon at a coffee shop where the owner is very passionate about rugby as I found out over my morning coffees. When the rugby got to the “put your head under the table stage”, I could at least look at the Channel frocks across the road. Looking at Channel is a step up from what I do at home when the boys play poorly. There, I clean out my kitchen shelves, which is always in a better shape when our team is off the boil! You should have seen those shelves after the World Cup victory. It was a mess!

I was the only South African present and my sense of foreboding increased when the Reggae stars got the tune of Nkosi so wrong! But no one in our venue laughed at my rendition of my national anthem so I think I am now a good contender for a public appearance at the next test! I persuaded one of my Australian co-students at the Ecole to come along (southern hemisphere loyalty) and we endured the French anthem all night long. After the game, the French bought many glasses of wine to “ease my disappointment” and played Johnny Clegg music videos to which we all danced happily together, fist-in-the-air as if all of us were winners.

Seeing that we are now on fists in the air, I must tell you that I greet our Madiba every morning at the Tulleries metro station. There is a large bill board with the photo (the one where he looked so dashing in his grey suit) of his release from Victor Verster and when we stop (and I know now which carriage to get into to be right opposite the photograph) I say “Good morning, Mr Mandela” and then the doors close and off we go.

When we were leaving the rugby-café-opposite-Channel, the last words from the French woman who “loews” Springbok rugby (her heroes are John “Schmidt” and Percy) were to “keep faith in Morne Steyn. Like Percy, he is also pretty (and she puts her hand to her face) and he will also play good rugby … in ten years time…” If the wine hadn’t rendered me speechless by then, I would have told her that we Springbok supporters never wait years for talent … we want it all now!

Before I forget, the one exception to my stats is Scotland. We always beat Scotland whether I am in Barcelona or Thollon. In two weeks’ time, unless John Smit reads this blog and grants me my wish, I think I may just pull the blanket over my head and sleep out the game against the Irish.

Finger condoms at the Ecole Ritz

By Edna Oberholzer | 11 November 2009

On the second day of the Ritz Escoffier course I had, for the first time, the courage to sharpen my knife, and then proceeded to slice through two fingers (in two separate incidents) and after two visits to the sick room I had two finger condoms! These finger condoms signal to everyone that you are an amateur and are therefore intensely disliked by most students.

However, Chef Didier was quite concerned that I may suffering from shock and accompanied me to the resident nurse after the first cut  After the second time, it was old hat and I went on my own!

The items in question look exactly like miniature condoms and are pulled over injured fingers to allow you to carry on with your work!

After class, I needed replacements and headed for the nearest chemist not far from where I live. Must say that if I was young and pretty, I would visit every chemist in Rue St.Antoine! For some as yet unknown reason, the young male chemists are gorgeous. “My chemist” then decided firstly, that I should get “strong” before the rugby test between France and the Springboks on Friday night and secondly, that we should have a long conversation about French and South African rugby (and there is really great excitement everywhere about this test match). For good measure, I was given directions to Frans Steyn’s next game! Please note he is a celebrity in France!

I should also at this point mention my friend Agyman who is the best tea maker in the world(!). Agyman (all of us are only on first name terms) has been washing dishes at the Ecole Ritz Escoffier for the past twenty years. He is originally from Ghana. Now he believes that he can fix any ailment, from exam blues to finger condom embarrassment, with a cup of his special honey tea!

He has helped his two kids through English universities and speaks good English. Although he loves rugby (always a good sign), our conversation today was all about football. We had a long discussion about the next world cup in SA. With great joy he told me that Ghana has qualified for the tournament and then asked me where the name Bafana Bafana comes from. Happy with my answers, he handed me my honey tea. I think Agyman is now my friend.

Big frog can’t fit in!

By Edna Oberholzer | 10 November 2009

Yesterday on my way home, I went into WH Smith to spend my allocated, monthly book allowance (on Ted Kennedy’s memoir). As I walked into the shop, a children’s book with this title was lying on a table near the door and it inspired me to get going on my blog. Why? Because it describes exactly how I felt in class for the first three weeks of the programme. Bbut I have passed my exam and are now In the Ritz Escoffier programme (started yesterday)

The exam was a nightmare. It is not only about cooking, but about cooking under pressure and in difficult circumstances. Ever seen two people with one two-plate gas burner trying to cook four complicated dishes in two hours. It reminded me of my netball days in primary school where I was always blown up for stretching over a very short player.

At one point during the exam (and I have never coped well with any exam) I felt like giving up and walking out (or simply telling the chefs that the food is horrible and they should rather order take out!).This was when I was fishing for my thinly sliced and blanched courgettes in the ice bath !

But it’s done. Have diploma! And my wonderful French land lady arranged a celebratory dinner party with some of her friends on Saturday evening. But more about this tomorrow. Now off to the second day of Ritz Escoffier programme where we are only three students in the class – Taiwan, South Africa and Argentina. It is intensive and fast, and I fit right in!

Currie Cup Final in 14th Century Cellar!

By Edna Oberholzer | 2 November 2009

On Saturday I watched the Currie Cup final at La Pomme d’Eve , 1 rue Laplace, just below the Panthenon in the Vth district. George, a Greek-born-in-the-Free-State-with-a-Cheetah-jersey, runs a lovely “gesellige” spot with a distinct South African flair. The Castles and Boerewors rolls are just what a homesick, rugby-loving South African needs during a Currie Cup final. If the Springbok Bar in London is not quite your cup of tea, then this cosy, classy, little cellar with nice South Africans could be it. And if the Boys butt heads at the end of game, there is no need to be embarrassed about their bad behaviour because you are among friends!

The walk home was beautiful. First down the hill, across Boulevard St.Germain, then past the Notre Dame and the Hotel De Ville (must be the prettiest City Hall!) and then on to Rue De Rivoli, where I had to turn left and head home to study for the exams.

Everyone at Ecole is now very nervous. Even the chefs! After all, our results are as much an indication of their performance as it is of ours!  This is how our exam will work. We have a short list of six recipes. Thirty minutes before our exam we draw two. We then have three hours to prepare one presentation plate and three mini, tasting plates for each recipe. We will then present our work to three judges who will sit in the library awaiting our culinary efforts.  Better get on with some more learning! Only two nights to go!

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Skeleton in my study!

By Edna Oberholzer | 29 October 2009

When I rented my apartment  in Rue St.Antoine in the Marais from my french land lady for 8 months, part of the deal was that I would stay in her apartment for two weeks as “my apartment” had been let out  for this period. So, yesterday I packed up and moved  a few metres down my street. It is glorious. I have a study, a private bathroom and a loft style bedroom cum dressing room. This is a large apartment in one of those buildings which are behind ornate doors with access only allowed to residents. She is a retired cardiologist, avid reader of translated South African literature, has three grand children and asked me to be “courageous” about the large plastic skeleton in the study (like the ones in the biology class at school))as this is used to teach the  children.

Do you think I can ask her if the art on the walls, with some very famous signatures on them, are real ?

Shaking hands with Michele Roth at Ecole Ritz!

By Edna Oberholzer | 28 October 2009

Lesson number one – chefs hardly ever agree on anything, even when teaching in the same school!

We have three chefs who teach our classes and each one of them thinks that his/her recipe or “development” is the very best. (First chef says sauté your mushrooms in oil, drain them, and then repeat in butter. Second chef says only use olive oil.). They all have their own personality and their very own hot buttons!

Chef David wants to see that you know your “organisation” before you walk in, Chef Adeline wants a spotless workstation (never leave a peel on your board) and you will keep Chef Didier happy if you don’t touch your fish stock while it’s simmering.

But corporate managers can learn something from this team who combine their collective strengths to teach us well.

Chef Didier being his supportive self

Chef Didier and moi!

Chef Didier builds confidence and makes you believe that you can do anything.

Chef David (who dances jigs, goes for tap dancing lessons and is always on a diet) teaches structure and organisation. Chef Adeline reminds me of my German teacher at school – you feel that she puts so much effort into correcting your mistakes again and again, that you cannot let her down. She teaches you to think. Or maybe she teaches us to persevere.

Today we met the great Michele Roth, director of cuisine at the Ritz (I thought he must be great because he wears red and blue ribbons on his collar, but then I learnt more…). The room went quiet as he walked in and even I jumped to attention! The man just oozes authority and now that I know how much effort it takes to peel a pea or to fix fish stock, I can only admire his achievements. I looked up his history on the internet and realised that I can’t even memorise all his achievements.

But then somewhere in the cuisine universe, a special place is waiting for me, even if I never get to wear those ribbons around my neck. . That’s to say, if I pass our first exam next week Wednesday.

One week of “lyfseer” at Ecole Ritz Escoffier – Paris

By Edna Oberholzer | 27 October 2009

Don’t be fooled by the smiley face on the first real evidence that Iam here!. My first week at cooking school has been absolute hell! My feet are still swollen, my back still aches, and I have had my first cuts and burns.

First week of classes 054

Check the stove!

I sacrificed my hair to the cause when I walked into a Tony & Guy salon and asked them chop it off as I became too tired to blow dry it every morning. The Chinese version of Edward Scissorhands obliged and I left with a lot less hair than I came in with, and a fringe – will work better with La Toque!

My desperate acts continued on Saturday when I purchased medicinal stockings (ja,regtig!), paid Paris prices for a full body massage at Saara in St. Germain-des-Pres and afterwards, had supper with my friend who lives above this parlour. She cooked (I asked for anything but French cuisine) and whilst she updated me on the latest achievements of her charity for girls in Kenya, the Global Give Back Circle, I lay on the couch with my feet up. Then I took a taxi home (she was amazed that I was contemplating taking the metro as she does not think it safe at 11.00) and slept without worrying about not hearing the alarm at 6:00! Oh, and before I fell into bed, I turned my watch back an hour (daylight saving). So grateful for an extra hour of sleep. On Sunday morning I was almost (just) able to face another week.

Each level of the overall programme consists of a number of sections made up of two days each. This week was Cesar Ritz/Cuisine/Section 1 and Section 2.

The first day is still a complete blur. I only vaguely remember being shown where the staff dining room is, receiving my first uniform and arriving in class, ready to roll. But first there was How-To-Dress 101 (those damn neck ties!), information on rules such as “thou shall not leave The Ritz with your uniform on” and a chance to check out the rest of the crowd (from Taiwan, USA/Chicago, Argentina, France and UAE/Dubai). One of my co-students was quite comfortable in her six inch heels and another, never lost one of her long, perfectly manicured nails! I really felt like “tannie van die plaas”!

Wednesday is our day off. This past week I went to Mora in Rue Montmatre to start my collection of knives (now that I know which is which). Mora is the most wonderful shop for chefs, wannabee chefs and for those who simply enjoy cooking. Well worth a visit!

Here is a foodie thing to try (courtesy Chef David):-

Mix equal quantities of fresh orange and ruby grapefruit juice. Bring to the boil and then simmer until reduced by a half or so. Take off the heat and drip-drip in some olive oil whilst blending with handheld blender until it has the consistency of a sauce.  Drizzle over pan fried chicken. This is a real taste sensation. Great for summer lunch!

Players 23 in Paris

By Edna Oberholzer | 26 October 2009

Living in Paris also means getting lost in Paris. But knowing your Springboks from your All Blacks does help as I recently found out.

We all know that the Parisians are generally not known for their overt friendliness but I was very surprised by the reaction I got from a number of people when I got lost, found myself walking around the same block a few times and had to ask for help. Before you think I am a complete klutz I must say that I did buy a new map book, but the maps are too small to read (maybe it was the shop assistant’s revenge because I asked for a “Carte de Paris” (menu of Paris) instead of a “Plan de Paris” (map of Paris).

First, I asked a little old lady for “direction Louvre” hoping she would point me in the right direction, but she went out of her way to walk me to the nearest bus stop, to ask other commuters for the right bus number and tell me to get on the number 81 bus. I wanted to walk, waited until she left, and asked another young man the same question in English. He promptly asked me why I thought he could speak English. “Because you are young” I said. “Very good answer” he said.

But the highlight of my day was when I finally gave up, decided to rest my feet, have a late afternoon salad and once again try my map book. A well-dressed young man looked at me and the map and asked if he could help. After giving directions, he then asked me if I was “Americaine”. I politely helped him right only to realise that I am talking to the most ardent South African rugby supporter in France. In great detail I was told how he enjoyed attending the semi-final between SA and Argentina in the world cup, how he thinks South Africa is the only country where the supporters are part of the team (the players and the team are ONE, he emphasizes) and how he and his rugby-playing friends never miss one of our games on TV “because you teach the world how to play rugby”. After an hour I walked away with lightness in my step, with this Player 23 and the “Bokke! Bokke! Amaboko!” close to in my heart.

When my Argentinean classmate said to me today “you (South Africa) are rugby” he got no argument from this fan!

Students also talk SA rugby at the Ecole Ritz Escoffier

Students also talk SA rugby at the Ecole Ritz Escoffier

Registering at The Ritz

By Edna Oberholzer | 25 October 2009

Place Vendome

The Ritz Hotel on Place Vendome

On my first day of living in Paris (sounds like a tune) I had to test my daily walk to the Ritz (takes about an hour so I decided to take the metro in future) and then hand in my security docs (they are very strong on security and being in breach of their security arrangements may get you “expelled”). Also required is a medical certificate stating that I am generally in good health (sic) and I have no food allergies (true). .

As this is my second “visit” to the Ritz, I was less nervous and could look around with more ease (no longer expecting the staff to jump on me and show me the door). The colour scheme is a soft floral-blue and is decorated in an ornate, yet intimate and gentle French way. I take back my previous comment about it looking like the grand casinos in Vegas. No comparison.

I met, for the first time the school secretary Mari-Fleur with whom I have now corresponded for almost a year. At long last, I was taken into the kitchen and shown the class rooms. One for patisserie and one for cuisine. No more than eight students at a time. Patisserie students hard at work and a photo shoot in the cuisine classroom.

She also asked me if a speak Afrikaans which I took to mean “African” as this is the way many Europeans ask about one’s ability to speak one of the other indigenous languages. And so she got my well-rehearsed lecture about eleven official languages etc. until I realised she really meant Afrikaans. Turns out she is friendly with Sophia Conradie who is one of the head honcho’s in the kitchen. I was told by a friend that she worked there and had previously contacted her mother who lives in Pretoria, but never quite managed to get hold of her. Just for the record, soon there will be two “Afrikaanse Afrikane”  in the dungeons at the Ritz (or at least for the next few months). Why dungeons? Not a single window in sight. Eight months of underground work. I will have to quickly get over my claustrophobia.

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