In our cups after last Friday’s Sijnn tasting at the top of the Helderberg, UK bespoke wine merchant Simon Farr reflected on the experience of drinking icon wine. “I often end up drinking wine that is valued at £1000 a bottle or even more and keeping coming back to the thought ‘is this all there is’? Is any wine truly worth £1000 a bottle?” I had a similar experience yesterday at Il Tartufo in Hyde Park with an encounter between a bottle of Château Latour 1985 and two quails, shown below.

The wine was in perfect nick and the tomato character of the Cabernet was sympathetically echoed in the rustic sauce made by Luciana Righi. As is the case with Simon, I hadn’t paid anywhere near the R4000 the bottle is “worth” as I had bought it many moons ago. A fine wine, certainly, and in good nick, too. But would I pay R4000 (and probably way more if ordered from a restaurant wine list)? No way, José.

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