When did Christian Eedes cease being an enfant terrible of SA wine writing and join the establishment? Perhaps when Harry Haddon and his car were evicted at dawn from Kloovenburg for squatting during the Swartland Revolution. Or when David Cope released the Klein Constantia Sumo wrestler video that resulted in the farm being sold to a bouncing Czech cyclist. An industry like SA wine can support only so many enfants terrible at one time.
The final September edition of WINE magazine presents six future legends: august Adi Badenhorst, handsome Howard Booysen, ravishing Rosa Kruger, magnificent Miles Mossop, elegant Eben Sadie and dashing Duncan Savage except only Howie is a true future legend. The others arrived ages ago, as is clear from the stellar prices they demand for their drops and glamorous “farmer” Rosa supplies the viticultrual prowess that polishes the pinnacle of SA pricey wine.
WINE’s present legends likewise miss the point with two of the two biggest influences in modern-day SA wine, revolutionary Razvan Macici and monumental Marc Kent, ignored.
So who are the true future legends? My six would kick off with charming Craig Hawkins who takes old vine Chenin and Harslevelu to sulphur free heights on the Paardeberg. Resplendent Rudi de Wet does a ditto with Viognier on the Helderberg and mixes Pinotage with Petit Verdot to great effect in a tumult of tempestuous tannin. Dapper Donovan Rall and debonaire David Sadie make Swartland white blends that wow and profound Peter-Allen Finlayson got Pinot right first time out. My final FL is judicious Julien Schaal, whose cool climate Syrah could reverse SA Shiraz out of a narrow cul-de-sac of its own making.