Forget about tourism and mineral exports, once again FW de Klerk, the last white president of the Republic, confirms unbanning the ANC and SA Communist Party was all about wine. As he tells the Observer today, twenty years on from that momentous day when he announced the release of Nelson Mandela, “If we had not changed in the manner we did, South Africa would be completely isolated. The majority of people in the world would be intent on overthrowing the government. Our economy would be non-existent – we would not be exporting a single case of wine and South African planes would not be allowed to land anywhere. Internally, we would have the equivalent of civil war.” How ironic then that the struggle is to be celebrated with Chivas Regal, an imported Scotch.

The same wine export point was made to the Financial Times the previous week over a glass of Raats 2008 Original red blend, R49 at Aubergine Restaurant in Barnet Street, Gardens in Cape Town. FW’s interlocutor had a glass of Land’s End Sauvignon Blanc (R50) which hopefully was from the magic 2009 vintage but could have been older as the windswept vines down south take time to come round. FW’s choice was a canny one, if a bit young.

Rated 3½ stars by a sighted wine guide, it was one of few fashionable cuvées in that publication not to rate four stars or higher. The home page of the producer notes “classical styled Bordeaux varietal blend. Pure and well defined, packed with blackcurrant and mulberry fruit and a hint of cocoa. Despite the wine’s power, it remains focused and pure. This wine could be described as the Beauty (39% Malbec) and the Beast (27% Petit Verdot) where elegance and power meets. The finish is refreshing with a great mineral and tobacco aftertaste.” A famous former smoker still addicted to Nicorette cigarette replacement gum, it was no doubt that tobacco aftertaste FW found satisfying.

We certainly drank better at Aubergine last night as my six wild oysters arrived with a glass of 2002 Montrachet “from another diner” as the sommelier delicately put it. Turned out to be Jörg Pfützner, Cape Town’s most dynamic wine punter who leads by example. Last year it was all about Riesling but this year he adjusts his parameters to include Sauvignon Blanc and will be hosting a Constantia Valley celebration of the green grape “wat skrik vir niks.”

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