The noble courts of Europe used to do a bundle on dessert wine from Constantia. In her Christmas laundry list of stickies and fortifieds in the Weekend Financial Times today, Jancis Robinson had space for just one sweetie from SA, the Mullineux Straw Wine 2008 made from air-dried, old vine Swartland Chenin Blanc. Since Mrs. Robinson is keeper of the Queen’s cellar (or something like that) it looks like Constantia is about to be replaced by the Swartland as purveyors of pudding wine to the posh.

Mullineux HQ in Riebeek-Kasteel

With their wines being featured with monotonous regularity by big name UK commentators, Chris and Andrea Mullineux are in danger of becoming an MBA case study on how to market a boutique winery in Blighty. A small, focused range of wines and energy for overseas trips and pressing the flesh as well as the grapes, have made this small Swartland husband and wife operation a media favourite. With a rustic new cellar in Riebeek-Kasteel opposite Bar Bar Black Sheep restaurant, is this the first sign of the Swartland taking over from Stellenbosch as the natural home of quality SA wine?

Mullineux, Straw Wine 2008 Swartland
Drink 2009-2013
Delicious tarte tatin juice with great tang, made from air-dried Chenin Blanc grapes from old South African bushvines. Not a bad price for the quality. 10.5%
£14.95 per 37.5cl Jeroboams; £14.99 the Sampler

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