The blogosphere is bubbling over the $47K pasta lunch for six at Nello’s in New York of Russian oligarch Roman Abramovitch on the eve of Halloween, although the details are not always accurately reported. Of course it was the wine wot dun it – 2 x Cristal Rosé fizz (magnums, natch.) for $10K, 2 x Château Pétrus (Bordeaux, $10K) and 3 x La Tache (Burgundy, $15K) – 9 bottle of wine equivalents, making it doubtful that Roman went back to work that afternoon. And quite how the Champagne went with the artichoke salad is not reported – in my experience, artichokes make Cristal taste like an old tin can.

Chef David Higgs at Rust en Vrede last night

We did a reverse Roman at Rust en Vrede last night: four glasses of (slightly corked) Pol Roger to start (a masterstroke that, to suggest to the sommelier that the bubbly is ever so slightly corked and then it disappears off the bill faster than an Oligarch downs an oyster), scallops, river-caught salmon, organic chicken leg, springbok, lamb and French cheese all round. The only negative was we ate the establishment out of bread. French fathered Paul Boutinot noted sternly “French people eat bread with their main courses, not their starters!” and by cheese time, the bakery was bare!

The quality was spectacular and we scored the meal (the guests included a Platter pundit) between 1 and 2 (out of 3) Michelin stars, sighted of course! The bill (per person, including a stunning 2006 vintage white blend from Gérard Gauby and a generous tip) was R600.

Paul Boutinot

Less than one unfortunate winemaker paid for a digestif at the One&Only last week. A wallflower at the Diners Club Winemaker of the Year Award splash up lunch starring Wagu cheeks, the winemaker from the wrong side of the mountain repaired to the bar for fortification before the long drive home. The bill was R1450 for 2 x Cognac (single tots), one espresso and a beer.

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