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The crème de la crème of SA wine take on the world. Given a budget of R9K by Spar liquor executive Ray Edwards, Cape Town retailer Caroline Rillema presented a selection of currently available wine gems (including several Platter 2010 five star stunners) to judges of the Spar Orange River Winemaker of the Year Competition on the banks of the mighty Groot Gariep in Upington yesterday.

Ray Edwards

Ray Edwards

Served blind (natch) while France may have come tops in all classes bar Chardonnay, SA was far cheaper and almost on the pace. Three extra wines were comped by Joachim Sa, the big cork in Amorim SA and judge at the richest wine competition in SA. The rest of the judging panel consisted of Guy Webber and Abé Beukes, winemakers at Stellenzicht and Darling Cellars respectively, former editor of WINE magazine Fiona McDonald, Spar wine consultant Tinus van Niekerk, Caroline and I.

Out of six Sauvignon Blancs (or should that read Sauvignons Blanc?), my favourite by a grassy green mile was Le Mont Damnée 2007 from Henri Bourgeois (R329) followed very closely by a giant asparagus in the shape of GT Ferreira’s Tokara Elgin 2008 (R100).

The damned mountain gets it by a short head thanks to that flinty, gun smoke character; real Louis L’Amour stuff. Bruce Jack’s Berrio Weathergirl 2008 (R108) was up there too – far less showy than a Los Vascos 2008 from Chile which impressed in the mid-palate department.

The freak of the flight came from Marlborough in New Zealand. Called Clos Henri 2007 (R295) and also made by Mr. Bourgeois, this was a World War I wine – mustard gas in the trenches and no quarter given. An Entre-Deux-Mer from Château Marjosse 2007 completed the line up, but at R179, was some distance off the pace.

Among Bordeaux-style blends there was a battle royal between Johann Krige’s leathery Kanonkop Paul Sauer 2006 (R280) and Giulio Bertrand’s sweet berry fruited Morgenster 2005 (R295) both Platter five star stunners. A close race until both wines were outclassed by a monster Château Giscours from the fabled 2005 vintage (R700).

The coffee/mocha La Clémence Pomerol was deemed not worth the R885 sticker price while the Château Leydet-Valentin 2005 bought by Joachim at Heathrow for £15, was.

Two Châteauneufs for R500 each, both 2006 vintage, the Domaine du Pegau and Domaine du Caillou les Quartz showed a traditional versus New World face of the Rhône and we all preferred Pegau.

In the Chardonnay department, Kevin Grant’s Ataraxia 2008 (R120), green melon on toast, easily outclassed a Petit Clos Blanc des Teurons Premier Cru 2005 (R185) and a 2006 Jayer-Gilles Hautes Côtes de Beaune (R175).

A stunning Malbec 2007 Terrazas de los Andes from Argentina – liquid cherry tobacco – and a miraculously fresh 1956 Rivesaltes fortified red rounded off a morning well spent in Upington. A town where the lady asked her husband “what do you plan to do today?” “Nothing.” “But that’s what you did yesterday.” “Yes, and I’m not finished yet.”

Yesterday's Upington Tasting

Yesterday's Upington Tasting

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Comments

 

Mark Farley

October 18, 2009 at 11:32 am

Hi Neil

A bit off the topic, but please could you email me a copy of the picture from your article on the CWG Auction from Sunday 18/10/09. Alan Pick would like a copy.

Thanks and regards
Mark Farley
The Butcher Shop & Grill

 

Peter

October 18, 2009 at 3:02 pm

Now that’s what I need, a secretary.

Also off the topic, what is the buzz on the great PR stunt pulled off by Cormac of Portofino ??

Food and wine, there is a connection.

 

Neil

October 18, 2009 at 4:12 pm

Peter, Cormac sounds like my kind of chef – real Anthony Bourdain stuff.

I’m sure everyone has by now been forwarded 20 copies of l’affair Portofino. If you haven’t, read the trail from the bottom up.

—— Forwarded Message
From:
Organization: Portofino Bar & Restaurant
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 2009 11:22:46 +0200
To: Andrew Fleming
Subject: Re: Website Contact

Dear Andrew,

I am a little bit puzzled by your remarks “I will not be going to your restaurant, and will be actively discouraging others from visiting your restaurant as well” I would have thought that my email was quite clear when I asked you not to book a table at my restaurant, obviously not so I will try again, Please do not book a table at my restaurant again.

I will try and contain my excitement and await the contribution from “the CEO of Median Fund Managers, Mr. Joseph Stoltz” upon receipt I will pin it up in the bathrooms for customers purusal while they relieve themselves.

Regards
Cormac

—– Original Message —–

From: Andrew Fleming
To: info@portofinoct.co.za
Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2009 10:57 AM
Subject: Re: Website Contact

Cormac,

In response to your email, I’d like to first state that in no way was I aware that any special measures had been taken by the restaurant on behalf of our party of four— this was never indicated to me in the reservation emails, nor are your opening hours indicated on your website. Had I known that the chef and staff were going to come in specifically for our party, and that the restaurant only opened at 6:30 PM, I would have confirmed the booking, as our plans were open to change (as they did), and changing plans would have disrupted the restaurant. It was never my intention to inconvenience anybody at the restaurant. We were, in fact, working with government representatives and looking to show them a great new restaurant, but unfortunately due to schedule changes from their side, had to cancel our booking. Unfortunately, this happens when working with out-of-town guests.

Your efforts to open the restaurant early on our behalf are certainly noted, and appreciated. However, your response to our unfortunate cancellation is very upsetting. Had we known the lengths the restaurant had gone to in order to accommodate us, your frustrations would have been more understandable. Instead, we were operating under the understanding that the restaurant was open for normal business for the time in which we made our booking, which is why I cancelled the reservation. When I saw your email come through, I had thought that it was no doubt an email to say, “Sorry you couldn’t make it, but we hope to see you soon,” or something along those lines. Instead, what I found was a personal attack on myself, and my integrity. This is out-of-line. I had looked forward to trying out your restaurant, as I enjoy supporting new establishments in Cape Town, and your menu looked particularly intriguing. In light of your email, however, I will not be going to your restaurant, and will be actively discouraging others from visiting your restaurant as well.

Moreover as one of the dinner guests for last night’s booking, the CEO of Median Fund Managers, Mr. Joseph Stoltz, has seen the correspondence between us, and will be following up in due course with his own thoughts on the matter.

Frustrations with restaurant patrons who are unreasonably demanding and inflexible are understandable; anger and hostility towards potential clientele over a reservation cancellation is simply unacceptable, as is your tone and sarcasm that have been used freely in your correspondence. Personal integrity is something that should always be maintained, both professionally and socially. Your correspondence to me lacks integrity altogether.

It’s a shame that you have taken a good restaurant concept and menu, and clouded it behind a wall of arrogant customer service where the restaurant patron is viewed as a nuisance, as an unwanted visitor.

Regards,

Andrew Fleming

On 2009/10/08 10:16 AM, “info@portofinoct.co.za” wrote:

Hi Andrew,

I had indeed been informed that you had canceled the table an hour before your booking time.
Tone remains the same.

Regards
Cormac

—– Original Message —–

From: Andrew Fleming
To: info@portofinoct.co.za
Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2009 8:38 AM

Subject: Re: Website Contact

Hi Cormac,

Before I respond to this email properly, I wanted to make sure that you had been informed of my cancellation, that I had phoned in at 4 PM yesterday? We had a last-minute schedule change on behalf of the business associates travelling down from Johannesburg that I called in as soon as I knew about. The tone of your email, and it’s commentary, indicates that perhaps you had not been informed of this telephonic cancellation.

Andrew

On 2009/10/07 7:54 PM, “info@portofinoct.co.za” wrote:

Hi Andrew,

On behalf of all of our staff who came in early to make and serve your food (we normally open at 6.30 I would like to thank you for messing their day up and more seriously disrupting my afternoon nap.

Please do us all a favour and don’t ever book a table at my restaurant again.

Regards
Cormac

—– Original Message —–

From: Andrew Fleming
To: info@portofinoct.co.za
Sent: Tuesday, October 06, 2009 8:49 AM

Subject: Re: Website Contact

HI Cormac,

Apologies, the dinner is only for Wednesday evening— is this a problem? If not, please put us down for 17:00 on Wednesday.

Also, will the full menu be available at 5 PM?

Kind Regards,
Andrew

On 2009/10/05 6:00 PM, “info@portofinoct.co.za” wrote:

Hi Andrew,

That’s fine. See you tomorrow.

Regards
Cormac

—– Original Message —–

From: Andrew Fleming
To: info@portofinoct.co.za
Sent: Monday, October 05, 2009 4:22 PM
Subject: Website Contact

Good Day,

We’re looking to make a booking for four people, tomorrow at 17:00 for an early business dinner— would this be possible?

Thank you,

Andrew Fleming

Andrew Fleming
Business Development Manager

Median Fund Managers (Pty) Ltd

andrew@medianfund.com
Cell/Mobile: +27 (0) 79 936 1832
Tel: +27 (0) 21 671 5480
Fax: +27 (0) 21 671 7063

http://www.medianfund.com

22 Kildare Road
Newlands
7700
Cape Town
South Africa



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